Gotta Car Radiator Leak II

Reinforcing The Repaired Leak

This Is How The Final Repair Should Look

In my previous post Gotta Leak, I had demonstrated how a small leak car in my car radiator can be fixed to last longer into the short and medium term until I have the time to replace a brand new radiator into the old clunker.

STEP 1 I had gone through how the leaking surface of the radiator was prepared properly for the start of repair by cleaning using acetone and then sealed with the epoxy mix (steel grade epoxy resin) creating an even and thick epoxy layer.  I had left the generously thick epoxy application to cure for 24 hours - that means not driving the car or even getting the car wet as it is important to let the this first application cure well.

We are now in STEP 2 - which would involve the use of the high grade puddy to reinforce the repair - which I bought at Tesco for just MR16, but if you cannot find the Shelly's brand, any other brand at a hardware store would still do the trick.



As you can see from the video above, the puddy needs to be kneaded a little at a time - say 3cm length at one time, just so that you would not waste the puddy should it harden within the 10 minutes allowance you have immediately after kneading the compound together. 

Once you have the compound kneaded, apply over the same area you had previously repaired.  This compound further reinforces the repair areas and when it dries over the repair, it will be ultra strong and forms a leak proof exterior on the radiator. 

From the video you can see working on the radiator in the engine compartment is pretty painstaking due to the lack of space and light.  I used a flourescent table lamp placed on top of the car engine so that you can see clearly where to place the epoxy compound.  The radiator fins are pretty soft and fragile, and you do not want to damage or bend the fins while working in the dark and end up affecting the cooling system further.

When I finished the Step 2 application, the car radiator repair areas were again left to cure - this time for 72 hours (ideally).  This is because any earlier, the compound may still be soft (you can test by trying to dig your finger nail into the compound).  When the compound hardens and feels like fiber glass hard surface (you nail would not be able to leave a mark), it is then good to go.

Voila, now ou got a "new" radiator that allows you to drive your car without water leaking....at least until your new radiator arrives or when you have the time to leave the car at the workshop for a few days of installation.

POST NOTE:

I took my old clunker out for a spin today and the radiator did not even spring a drop of  water leak!  That's a big relief.  The old sport is back to life again!